As skirts narrowed at the end of the eighteenth century, so did hair-styles. Gone were the piled-up and puffed-out creations that forced their wearers to sleep upright so as not to damage them and in came classical styles based on those of ancient Greece and Rome, to match the new light gowns.But this simplicity did not last very long. As the new century progressed, styles again became more elaborate and within thirty years hair fashions had become as tortured as they even had been.
Below I have selected some images which show this progression. but even the simpler styles seem to have have been difficult to achieve without the assistance of a maid or hairdresser. In 1805, Jane Austen wrote to Cassandra, "Mr Hall…..charged Elizabeth (their sister-in-law at Godmersham Park) 5s for every time of dressing her hair and 5s for every lesson to Sace, allowing nothing for the pleasures of his visit here, for meat, drink & Lodging, the benefit of Country air, & the charms of Mrs Salkeld’s & Mrs Sace’s society.—Towards me he was as considerate, as I had hoped for, from my relationship to you, charging me only 2s.6d for cutting my hair, tho’ it was as thoroughly dress’d after being cut for Eastwell, as it had been for the Ashford Assembly. He certainly respects either our Youth or our poverty.”
1 Evening Dress 1794 2 Grecian Style 1803
Below I have selected some images which show this progression. but even the simpler styles seem to have have been difficult to achieve without the assistance of a maid or hairdresser. In 1805, Jane Austen wrote to Cassandra, "Mr Hall…..charged Elizabeth (their sister-in-law at Godmersham Park) 5s for every time of dressing her hair and 5s for every lesson to Sace, allowing nothing for the pleasures of his visit here, for meat, drink & Lodging, the benefit of Country air, & the charms of Mrs Salkeld’s & Mrs Sace’s society.—Towards me he was as considerate, as I had hoped for, from my relationship to you, charging me only 2s.6d for cutting my hair, tho’ it was as thoroughly dress’d after being cut for Eastwell, as it had been for the Ashford Assembly. He certainly respects either our Youth or our poverty.”
1 Evening Dress 1794 2 Grecian Style 1803
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One way of avoiding this trouble and expense was to wear a cap, although this was more the sign of a married woman or older spinster. In 1798, then aged twenty-three, Jane Austen had written, "I have made myself two or three caps to wear of evenings since I came home and they have saved me a world of torment as to hair-dressing, which at present gives me not trouble beyond washing and brushing, for my long hair is always plaited up out of sight, and my short hair curls well enough to want no papering.”
3 Evening Dress 1808, with and without cap
3 Evening Dress 1808, with and without cap
A lady never left the house bare-headed and for evening parties, many opted for a turban or other head covering, perhaps also to cover thinning or greying hair. Curls could be purchased and fixed at the temples or forehead as required.
4 Ball dress with lace and flower-trimmed cap, and 5 walking dress 1808
4 Ball dress with lace and flower-trimmed cap, and 5 walking dress 1808
6 Here is an interesting French plate from 1810 which shows two different styles. I particularly like the elaborately woven chignon of no. 2 but an not too impressed by the little curls at the forehead.
By 1816, styles were more ornate.
7 February 1816 8 May 1816
7 February 1816 8 May 1816
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And once we are past 1820................
9 Ball dress 1823 10 Evening Dress 1824
9 Ball dress 1823 10 Evening Dress 1824
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11 My final example is an undated book illustration which shows front and back of the head. Going by the dress, I would put it at about 1830, the year of King George IV's death. The caption of the illusration is "I hope he'll be there". I wonder what he would make of her horns! This image is also interesting because it shows the big pads that were worn to puff out the sleeves.
